Mike's Personal Picks
RESTAURANTS, CAFES, AND WINE BARS
Listed chronologically by Arrondissement
1st Arrondissement
La Renommée  $$$$
Old school elegance in a building dating from 1823.
Dark, romatically lit, leather booths and beautiful wall hangings.
French food & strong drinks.
Highly rated and justly so.
Le Grand Vefour $$$$
Gorgeous 18th-century setting that has played host to Napoleon, Victor Hugo, Balzac, Zola, Collette and all the literary greats of the past two centururies.
Michelin chef, Guy Martin, oversees an elegant operation. Lunch here is a bargain, very reasoabley priced for a Michelin restauraurant - give it a try.
Located under the arcade of the Palais Royal
Le Rubis (Wine Bar)Â $$
Another sentimental favorite of mine. Nondescript corner wine bar with a strong reputation among locals. Burgundian wines by the glass, charcruterie, and small plates. At lunch, a hidden doorway leads upstairs to a communal dining room featuring hearty country fare.
The clientel is eclectic; bankers, fashion models, constuction workers and the occassional tourist.
Nothing like an Omlette au Fromage, a baguette with Normandy butter, and half a carafe of white burgundy (For breakfast).
WILLI'S Wine Bar (& Restaurant)
The original wine-by-the-glass wine bar in Paris (1980). This small narow bar on the border of the 1st & 2nd Arrondissements lies right around the corner from Le Grand Colbert (See below). It's legendary owner, Mark Williamson, can still be found behind the bar on certain days. The place is a local landmark, made famous for the Lithographs that adorn the walls - Williamson holds an annual competition for the design of this year's Affiche (Poster) that advertizes the bar - these have become limited edition collector's items over the years.The adjoining restaurant serves very good bistro fare.
2nd Arrondissement
Le Grand Colbert $$$
Legendary Brasserie/Bistro near the Palais Royal.
Beautiful turn-of-the-century decor and traditional menu.
Made famous as the back drop for the Diane Keaton / Jack Nicholson movie,
"Something's Gotta Give".
Harry's New York Bar  $$$
The legendary watering hole of writers, artists, movie stars, and countless tourists.
Home of the original Bloody Mary and a half dozen other famous cocktails
This saloon is not to be missed. You won't earn your Paris Merit Badge until you've been to Harry's.
3rd Arrondissement
Robert & Louise  $$$
A tiny Marais restaurant of city-wide renown.
Their specialty: Steak, Ribs, Entrecote - all cooked on an open fireplace.
If you're in the mood for meat, this is the place. Of course they offer other excellent dishes as well.
The place is TINY so book in advance.
Briezh Cafe (Creperie)Â $$
Very popular Creperie. Often acclaimed as the best crepes and galettes in Paris. (I know of a couple Mom & Pop shops that are better, but in general you can't go wrong at Breizh Cafe).
3 locatons: This, the original one in the 3rd Arr, and one in the 6th at Carrfour del'Odeon, and a third near Rue Montorgueil in the 2nd Arr.
Chez Janou $$$
Lively bustling and popular bistro a block North of Place des Vosges
Emphasis on Provencal cuisine along with traditonal fare.
Famous for their Chocolate Mousse dessert and an extensive collection of "Pastis" aparitifs.
Le Petit Marche $$$
Excellent Restaurant two blocks North of Place des Vosges.
French cuisine with a dash of Asian fusion.
Relaxed atmosphere and helpful female staff.
4th Arrondissement
Bofinger  $$$
Located between Place des Vosges and the Bastille.
The oldest Brasserie in Paris (1864). A wide menu including lots of Alsatian and seafood specialties.
Gorgeous Belle Epoque decor (Sneak a peek at the famous Dolphin urinals in the mens' room).
For dessert, may I recommend the "Ile Flottant" (Poached merengue floating in Creme Anglais, drizzled with carmelized sugar and slivered almonds).
Bistrot des Tournelles  $$$
I include this place because simply EVERBODY lists it as one of the top small bistros in town.
My personal experience was somewhat underwhelming, but maybe we just caught them on an off night. Perhaps you will agree wth the rest of the restaurant critics ?!?
Tiny place with modest decor. A young energetic staff.
A short walk from Place des Vosges and le Bastille.
L'Ange 20Â $$$
A fun and slightly funky restaurant located one block from Place des Vosges.
Rave reviews from Trp Advisor and Gault & Millau have the crowds waiting in line to get in.
Great for a lunch after visitng Place des Vosges or as a dinner destination.
Benoit  $$$$
Considered for decades the BEST Bistro in Paris. While it has many modern day competitors for the title, it holds its own nicely.
It is now among the list of Michelin superstar Alain Ducasse's baby bistros.
Ducasse has retained the beautiful turn-of-the-century decor (1912) and tweeked the tradtional menu with a few innovations,
Great spot for an elegant lunch of a superlative dinner in a romantic setting.
5th Arrondissement
La Tour d'Argent $$$$$
One of Paris's most famous establishments, dating back to 1582
Unsurpassed views of Notre Dame from its 6th floor dining room.
Signature dish is Pressed Duck. Two Michelin Stars and striving for a third.
Our sentimental favorite for fine dining in Paris.
Les Papilles $$$
A wineshop that doubles as a marvelous bistro.
Located near Luxembourg Gardens and the Panttheon.
One menu offering each day selected by the chef. - Always delicious.
Select your wine from the wine shop shelves - many nice vintages.
One of our favorites. if you are more than one couple, ask for the round table in the alcove at the back.
Le Petit Chatelet $$$
A cozy bistro next door to Shakespeare and Company.
An open fireplace where meats are grilled. Traditional cuisine.
Authenic atmosphere and good service. We always enjoy dining here.
Le Coup Chou $$$
VERY romantic atmosphere in four ancient connected houses from the 16th-century. Fireplaces and cozy nooks.
Voted several times the most Romantic restaurant in Paris.
Marlene Deitrich was a regular here back in the 60's & 70's.
Exellent tradional menu with a few modern twists. Vegan Friendly.
Les Pipos  $$
A true Latin Quarter Bohemien wine bar/bistro.
Excellent wines at affordable prices and delicious homecooked food.
A hangout for locals and students from the Sorbonne.
6th Arrondissement
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Le Procope  $$$
The oldeset Cafe in Paris (1686). Past guests have included Napoleon Bonaparte, Voltaire, Rousseau, Thomas Jefferson, Ben Franklin, and all the names of the French Revolution.
Wonderfully preserved decor transports you back to the 18th -century.
Good traditonal French cuisine. A MUST for History buffs and those wanting to absorb the nostalgia of Left Bank Paris
Brasserie LIPP $$$
Authentic Old School Brasserie, rich in history and celebrity guest list (Hemingway, Picasso, et al).
Part of the St Germain TRIAD with Cafe de Flore & Les Deux Magots.
No menus in English but the charming waiters will help explain the fare.
We go here almost everytime we are in Paris.
Bouillon Racine $$$
A Belle Epoque masterpiece of Art Nouveau architechture, restored to its original 1906 condition.
Good traditional fare and attentive waiters. We come here frequently for lunch after a stroll in the Luxembourg Gardens.
La Closerie des Lilas $$$$
Historic cafe/restaurant. Once the prefered hangout of Ernest Hemingway.
One of the five legendary Montparnasse cafes of the Lost Generation (Les Montparnos).
Sophisticated decor and upscale menu in the restaurant (Ask for a table near the piano) and a more relaxed atmosphere in the bar/bistro section.
Check out the brass plate on the bar that denotes Hemingway's favorite spot.
La Rotonde $$$
Another of the five legendary Montparnasse cafes of the Lost Generation (Les Montparnos). Said to be French President Manuel Macron's favorite restaurant. Glamorous red interior with Modigliani portraits adorning the walls (Modigliani and Picaso were regulars here, often hocking their paintings to pay for a meal). All the usual suspects from the 1920's Lost Generation were also habitués. Classic menu, highlighted by seafood.
La Coupole $$$
Perhaps the most famous of the five legendary Montparnasse cafes of the Lost Generation (Les Montparnos).
It's guest book is unmatched for the celebrated names of 1920's Jazz Age Paris: Picasso, Hemingway, Josephine Baker, Man Ray, F. Scott Fitsgerald, and so many more. A veritable Institution on the Left Bank. A cavernous ART DECO interior welcomes a large clientele. Traditonal French cuisine
Vagenende  $$$
An Art Nouveau masterpiece (1906) preserved as a registered landmark.
Lively upscale atmosphere and good traditional menu.
Worth a vist if only to appreciate one of Paris's finest remaining Art Nouveau treasures.
Allard  $$$
A local institution going back to the 1930's. The decor of that era remains; charming & nostalgic
Now part of Super Star Michelin Chef Alain Ducasse's group of baby bistros. Ducasse has kept the original traditional menu with only a few updates. Signature Dish: Duck with Olives, and we love their Salade Haricots Verts. One of our favrorites.
7th Arrondissement
La Fontaine de Mars  $$$
Regarded by many as THE Quintessential Parisian Bistro.
Politicians and celebs rub shoulders with locals and tourists over the red-checkered-tablecloth-covered tables.
Barack Obama and Michelle dined here in 2009 (But we keep coming back anyway).
Delicious traditional menu.
Auberge Bressane  $$$
Lovely, cozy, authentic, delicious.
Like turning back the clock seventy-five years - I love this place.
Debbie's favorite dish, Chicken & Morrel Mushrooms, is admirably prepared here,
Traditional menu with Burgundian accents.
Le Bistrot de Paris  $$$
One of our GO-TO choices when entertainig American guests, Authentic Bistro atmosphere, attentive and entertaining waiters and dependable French bistro fare.
Their Profiteroles are the best in Paris (I.M.O.)
Located in the Antiquarian quarter, near the border of the 6th and 7th Arrondissements.
L'Ami Jean  $$$
A bustling modern bistro. Extremely popular.
The eccentric chef, Stéphane Jégo, works wonders.
MAKE SURE to have their Riz au Lait (Rice Pudding) for dessert - Memorable!
8th Arrondissement
Chez Monsieur  $$$
A sophisicated bistro near the Madeleine.
The concierges at the Ritz and the Crillon recommend this place to their guests.
Tasteful, understated decor, professional and discreet service,
The house speciality (And my favorite) is Blanquette de Veau (Lamb Stew).
Ask for a booth toward the back of the dining room.
9th Arrondissement
Le Bon Georges $$$$
Gorgeous old school Bistro vibe, with upscale menu, presentation, and service. A cozy Chef's Table can be reserved (Far in advance.)
This is a Bistro for Grown-ups
One of the largest wine cellars in Paris (Their voluminous wine list is dotted with vintages in the $3,000 to $5,000 range)
Petrelle $$$
Said by many to be the most romantic restaurant in Paris currently.
Rave reviews from all quarters.
Small menu but it works well.
An affordable prix fixe lunch and an intimate and romantic dinner destintion.
Cafe de la Paix  $$$$
A Belle Epoque treasure and registerd landmark. In the late 19th-century it was said that if one sat on its terrace long enough, one would see "Everybody who was anybody" from both sides of the Atlantic.
It is the lobby restaurant of Le Grand Hotel (Our favorite Right Bank hotel)
Located Next door to the Palais Garnier Opera House
10th Arrondissement
Brasserie FLO (Floderer)
Delightful brasserie dating from 1909.
On an out of the way street but worth the hunt to find it.
Recent remodel has livened it up while still retainng its turn-of-te-century charm.
Classic Brasserie fare
11th Arrondissement
Bistrot Paul Bert
Very popular spot. Turn-of-the-century vibe despite only openng in the 1990's
Very good traditional French cuisine.
One of the most popular eateries in the 11th Arrondissement.
Chardenoux  $$$
Gorgeous restored Art Nouveau dining room.
Under the guiding hand of star chef Cyril Lignac
Seafood is the star but also a wide offering of delicious dishes.
Very popular & very romantic -
Chez Paul  $$$Â
Poscard Perfect - this bistro/brasserie has been around for over a century.
What every neighborhood bistro should be.
Located just East of Place de la Bastille
12th Arrondissement
Le Train Bleu  $$$$
The most opulent dining room in Paris and one of our favorites.
Built for the 1900 Universal Exposition .
Excellent cuisine and service under the direction of Michelin Chef Michel Rostand.
Le Square Trousseau  $$$
Lovely old fashion bistro from 1907, overlooking a quiet square by the same name.
Traditional French cuisine, Continuous service breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Le Baron Rouge  $$
A lively neighborhood wine bar, one of the city's best in my opinion.
Extensive selection of wines by the glass along sith some tasty small plates.
Located a stone's throw from the Square Trousseau bistro mentioned above, and near the popular Aligre open air market.
18th Arrondissement
