Ile Saint-Louis “The Ultimate Jewel”
Paris expert, Thirza Vallois, in her acclaimed guide book, Around and About Paris, summed up the second island in the Seine as “The ultimate jewel” and “Paris at its best”. It’s difficult to disagree with her. With the river as its moat and encased in fortress like stone quays, this 17th-century aristocratic village remains much as it was in the reign of Louis XIV; almost as if some seismic event had sheared off a slice of the patrician Marais district and anchored it in the Seine, to be preserved and protected there.
What for centuries were two small uninhabited islands, where duels of honor were occasionally fought, where cows grazed and laundresses spread their linen to dry, became at the start of the 17th century the scene of upscale urban development. An engineer, Christophe Marie, won approval from the young king Louis XIII and the cannons of Notre Dame to combine the two islands into one and build a bridge to connect this new island to the Right Bank of the Seine. In return for this, he and his two partners, Poulletier and Le Regrattier, would be allowed to subdivide and sell plots on the island for development. Today’s principle cross street, Rue des Deux Ponts, marks the place where the two islands were joined. The other principle cross streets take their names from the two partners, and that first bridge, the Pont Marie, commemorates the name of the entrepreneurial engineer who sadly went bankrupt before the project became profitable.
This new urban enclave immediately became the coveted target of the French aristocracy and the emerging nouveau riche. The leading architects and artists of the day, Le Vau and Le Brun, were commissioned to create townhouses with austere classical facades and interiors of fantastic opulence. The ensuing four centuries have sadly condemned many of those glorious mansions to oblivion, but a significant number of these Hotels Particuliers remain.
The facades of these noble townhouses face outward to enjoy the river view. The rear of each property backs up to the main east-west artery of the island; Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile. The more modest houses of the tradesman and builders who served the wealthy line this street. Today it is the island’s main tourist destination as well as the shopping street and lifeline of the circa 2,400 residents who still call the island home.
The avid tourist who takes some time to circumnavigate the island’s perimeter will notice commemorative plaques on certain houses which give a clue to some of the many aristocrats, artists, politicians and financiers (and their mistresses) who lived here over the centuries. One of these plaques is particularly poignant. It reminds us of Camille Claudel, the subject of one of 19th-Century France’s most romantic, tempestuous and tragic love stories. At age 18 she became the student and lover of the famous sculptor, Auguste Rodin, who was 24 years her senior. After a stormy 16 year relationship Camille repaired to the Ile Saint-Louis, never to see Rodin again. She maintained her studio here for another 14 years until a nervous breakdown in 1913 caused her famous diplomat brother, Paul Claudel, to have her committed. She lived on for another 30 years, still confined to an insane asylum.
Wining, dining and dwelling: At least a dozen eateries and four boutique hotels line the Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile. The choice of dining options ranges from tea salons to upscale restaurants, and of course a discussion of the island’s edibles is never complete without mention of that world famous purveyor of ice cream, Berthillon. A list of some of my eating and sleeping favorites is included at the end of this article.
When it comes to food and drink, I’m reminded on every visit to the island of the great photographic chronicler of Parisian life, Robert Doisneau, who maintained that, “. . . every man should have a regular cafe. For the past 40 years, my regular cafe has been the Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis. While not technically a cafe, “The Brasserie”, as it is simply referred to among those who know me, embodies all that Doisneau intended by his comment.
Its fortuitous location at the western tip of the island makes it a magnet for island residents and tourists alike, and on sunny days its terrace must surely rank among the best in the entire city. But I’m partial to late autumn or early spring days when the weather engenders a preference for the interior. The decor is vintage turn-of-the-century; a no frills neighborhood meeting and eating place with red checkered table cloths and communal rows of tables. Above the three-sided bar sits a stuffed stork, symbol of the Eastern province of Alsace from whence many brasserie owners migrated as refugees from the Franco-Prussian War. They brought with them their robust cuisine and the art of brewing beer.
The establishment traces its genealogy to the postwar Belle Epoque era of the 1880s. Originally known as Cafe des Sports, it had other incarnations as La Taverne du Pont-Rouge and the Oasis. In fact, in my early years of patronage in the 1970s, it was not unusual for an occasional elderly British tourist to still refer to it as “The Oasis”. The current ownership and present name date from the early 1950s. The third generation of the Guepratte family continues to operate it and contribute greatly to the geniality that makes me return year after year.
If you’re hungry, you can’t go wrong with traditional Alsatian dishes like Choucroute Garni and Tarte à l’Oignon, as well as French classics like Steak Tartare, Cassoulet or a salad of Frisee aux Lardons. The house wines are decent and there are always featured wines each month. For dessert, there is an excellent Mont Blanc and, when in doubt, one can always rely on a few scoops of Berthillon’s ice cream, made at the Berthillon shop down the street.
Is The Brasserie the “ultimate jewel”? No, but it is certainly “Paris at its best”.
Restaurants, Bistros & Brasseries:
Auberge de La Reine Blanche, 30, rue Saint Louis en l’Ile,
http://www.aubergedelareineblanche.com
A veteran of the Ile for many years. Dependable classic French dishes in a cute countrified setting.
L’Ilot Vache, 35 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile
http://www.lilotvache.fr
The restaurant takes its name from one of the two original islands (Cow Island).
Good food in a romantic old world setting.
L’Orangerie, 28 Rue Saint Louis en l’Ile
https://orangerieparis.com
Very classy upscale cuisine in a calm and refined setting. NOTE: A recent change of ownership has some of the island residents concerned. Give it a try and see what you think.
Le Saint Regis, 6 Rue Jean du Bellay
http://www.cafesaintregisparis.com
Nice faux Belle Epoque decor. Great for lunch, snacks or an afternoon break.
Le Flore en l’Ile, 42 quai d’Orlean
http://www.lefloreenlile.fr
Come for breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea – A marvelous view of Notre Dame from its terrace.
La Brasserie de l’Isle Saint-Louis, 55, quai de Bourbon
http://www.labrasserie-isl.fr
Dependable Alsatian dishes in a century old neighborhood brasserie. The best beer in Paris (Mutzig), and on sunny days, the best people watching terrace on the island, if not the city.
Berthillon, 29-31 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile
http://www.berthillon.fr
Before there was Baskin-Robbins, there was Berthillon! Hands down, the best ice cream in Paris. Dozens of delicious flavors, in a cup or cone. A requirement if you are to qualify for your Paris Merit Badge.
Hotels:
Hotel Saint-Louis en l’Ile, 75 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile
http://www.saintlouisenlisle.com
Perhaps the best of the three boutique hotels on the south side of the main street. Old school 3 star ambiance and typically small sleeping rooms – Charming.
Hotel Jeu de Paume, 54, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile
http://jeudepaumehotel.com/ile-saint-louis
The most upscale of the four hotels on the island. Creative decor incorporating the exposed beams of a 17thcentury Jeu de Paume court (forerunner of modern tennis). Eclectic & romantic.